17th Century: The Baroque

Motifs/Fabric/Silhouette Costume for Men Costume for Women General Costume Accessories

I General Information

A1. Time Period: 1600 - 1699 A.D.

  • A century of social and political upheavals...civil wars, religious persecution, revolts, peasant discontent, etc.
  • Period of the Thirty Year War in Germany (began as a religious war, and ended with most powers of Europe involved)...Result: Peace of Westphalia.. allowing each German state to choose their own religion.
  • Encompasses most of the Baroque era. Baroque(end of 16th - mid 18th century).
  • The Baroque style was lavish, ornamentation... free and flowing lines.. massive as opposed to delicate.

 

A2. Location

All countries of Western Europe at that time.


   

 

 

B. Social

  • Absolute Monarchy was generally the rule. - ruling by Divine Right
  • France - Louis XIV (Sun King) He is important as he established a level of grandeur in the court that had not yet been reached. He built the Palace of Versailles, which became the cultural center of Europe.
  • England - James I (Divine Right of Kings) during his reign, struggles with Puritans, and flight to USA .
  • Charles I came to rule... he was beheaded as a result of Civil War and the Commonwealth was established. (Cromwell).
  • Charles II took the throne.. and brought with him, French styles he had acquired in his outcast years in France.
  • Russia - Peter the Great
  • Important groups were the Church, the aristocracy and the growing Bourgeoisie.... developments in the arts centered around the Courts.. as did these various social groups.
  • French Court at Versailles.. was the center of Europe

 

 

 

 

C. Economic

  • Growth in trade
  • Growth of businesses
 

 

D. Commerce

  • Growth of Trade continues. This develops to the Far East. Japan closes its trade to Europe (Policy of Seclusion), thus Europe looked to other Far East countries for trade.
  • Formation of the East India Company... supported by Elizabeth the First... were given the monopoly on trade. This developed a trade of cotton, set up on the Indian sub-continent through factories (Tortora)
 

 

E. Religion

  • Religious strife continued....and in general, Catholics and Protestants co-existed.
  • Catholic church’s Counter-Reformation... where they persecuted the Protestants (Louis the XIV revoked the Edict of Nantes.. and persecuted French Protestants Huguenots, who fled to other parts of Europe and the U.S.
  • Puritans were a group in England who opposed certain ‘Roman’ rituals and attempted to ‘clean up’ the church.

 

 

 

F. Literature and Art

  • Baroque Style... was curvilinear and massive. You will see curvilinear in the clothing of the people.
  • Artists: Rubens, Hals, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Van Dyck, Poussin and Valasquez
  • Literature: Cervantes, Milton, Moliere
  • Music: Bach, Handel’s early beginnings
  • Architecture - Christopher Wren

St. Paul's Cathedral

St. Paul's Interior

Wren: Church of St. Stephen Walbrook, London

DELIGHT IN DISORDER.
by Robert Herrick


A SWEET disorder in the dress
Kindles in clothes a wantonness :
A lawn about the shoulders thrown
Into a fine distraction :
An erring lace which here and there
Enthrals the crimson stomacher :
A cuff neglectful, and thereby
Ribbons to flow confusedly :
A winning wave (deserving note)
In the tempestuous petticoat :
A careless shoe-string, in whose tie
I see a wild civility :
Do more bewitch me than when art
Is too precise in every part.

Agnolo Bronzino. Lucrezia Panciatichi. c. 1540.

JULIA'S PETTICOAT.
by Robert Herrick


THY azure robe I did behold
As airy as the leaves of gold,
Which, erring here, and wandring there,
Pleas'd with transgression ev'rywhere :
Sometimes 'twould pant, and sigh, and heave,
As if to stir it scarce had leave :
But, having got it, thereupon
'Twould make a brave expansion.
And pounc'd with stars it showed to me
Like a celestial canopy.
Sometimes 'twould blaze, and then abate,
Like to a flame grown moderate :
Sometimes away 'twould wildly fling,
Then to thy thighs so closely cling
That some conceit did melt me down
As lovers fall into a swoon :
And all confus'd, I there did lie
Drown'd in delights, but could not die.
That leading cloud I follow'd still,
Hoping t' have seen of it my fill ;
But ah ! I could not : should it move
To life eternal, I could love.

Artemisia Gentileschi.
The Inclination. ca. 1616.

 

G. Intellectual

  • Newton, 1684 Theories of Motion
  • Galileo, 1632 Theories of Astronomy

 

H. Miscellaneous

 

 

 

II Costume Overview

Overview

  • Styles of Clothing - influenced by Groups
  • Puritans - plain or ‘sad’ colors, high crowned hats
  • Cavalier or Royalist sympathizers - broad brimmed plumed hats
  • Aprons became a fashion for Puritans and Cavalier’s
  • Spanish - farthingale (Spanish - verdugado), mantilla (veil)

 

Women

  • soft gowns with floppy lace collars, lace cuffs
  • bodices and skirts usually separate
  • skirts and petticoats

The Letter by Ter Borch, 1660

Men

  • called cavaliers, gentlemen fops
  • loose fitting garments, decorated with many ornaments
  • high boots, (floppy topped), hose with lace cuffs, plumed hats

Ainolfo de' Bardi by Carlo Dolci, 1632

Evolutions
Men
Tunic, pourpoint, doublet >>> vest or waistcoat
justaucorps or jerkin >>> jacket or coat (Habit in French)
Women
tunic >>>cotte or dress
kirtle>>> petticoat

 
   
   

 

A. Motifs

  • Large Variety, florals, geometrics

 

 

B. Materials

  • Cotton Chintz - a handpainted or printed fabric, sometimes with a glaze
  • Cotton Calicoes - small printed fabrics (Calcutta, India)
  • Bengal Muslin
  • Brocades, velvets, embroidered velvets, satins, damasks, cloth of gold.
  • Colors were bright.
  • Fabrics richly decorated with pearl’s, gold, etc.
  • Demand for cotton was so high that smuggling and evasion of laws occurred (Tortora)

 

 

C. Silhouette

  • Moved towards a vertical line later in the 16th century and into the 17th century
  • Men dressed with great ornamentation.
  • Women were narrow shoulders, small waist, full hips.
  • Silhouette became more fitted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

D. Other Information

 

 

 

 

III Costume Items

A1. Costume for Men

Doublet/Pourpoint

 

The Dentist by Jan Miense Molenaers, 1629

 

The 1st Duke of Hamilton by David Mytens, 1629

Vest/Waistcoat
Coat, Justaucorp
Rochet

Unknown Gentleman by Dujardin, 1666

Rhinegraves/Petticoat Breeches

Gentleman in Rhingraves by Sebastien Leclerc

Lady and Soldier by Ter Borch, c.1662

Pantaloni/Breeches

 

The Evening of the Wedding by Brosse, 1633

Spanish Slops/ Full Slops
Baldric

 

Fashion Shop by Bérain, 1678

Shirts

Leiden Baker and Wife by Jan Steen

Falling Band/Band Strings

Fortune Teller by Georges de la Tour, 1632
Metropolitan, New York

Galants

Louis XIV and Courtier, 1660s

La Braye
Cannons

Louis XIV and Courtier, 1660s

Cassock
Manteau (coat)

Lady and Gentleman by Leclerc, 1679

Cravat

Lady and Gentleman by Bonnard, 1680

 

Jabot
 
Steinkirk

Prince Ligne by Schenck

Bucket Boots

Allegory of Taste and Smell, artist unknown

Brandenburgs

 

A2. Costume for Women

 

Gown/Robe

 

Noble Couple by A. van den Tempel

 

Decolletage

 

Unknown Woman by A. van den Tepmel, 1670
Ermitage, St. Petersburg

Meanteau (skirt)

Lady in Court Dress by Bonnard


Farthingale/Vergugadin

Infanta Margarita by Velázquez, 1659
Kunsthistorisches Museum, Wien

Corset/Busc
Stomacher

 

Marie Louise de Tassis by van Dijck, 1629

False/Hanging Sleeves

Maria Anna of Hungary by Velázquez, 1630

Justaucorps
Fichu

Needlewoman by Velazquez, 1640

Girl by Gabriel Metsu

Medici Collar

 

Hélène Fourment in Wedding Dress by her husband Peter Paul Rubens, c1630

Berta Collar

Lady by the Window by Vermeer, 1658
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Echelle

Prentintailles
 
Pinners

The Chemist at the Sickbed by Brosse

Palatine, Pelerines, Tippet

Mary Villiers by van Dijck, 1636

 

B. General

Perruque/Periwig

Louis XIV by Antoine Masson, 1697

Cadenette or Lovelock
Bayeux Lace
 
   

 

C. Accessories

Fontange

Lady in Manteau by Bonnard

Postilion

The Night Watch by Rembrandt van Rijn, 1642

Patches
Earstring
Muff/Muffatees

Gauntlets

THE POMANDER BRACELET.
by Robert Herrick


To me my Julia lately sent
A bracelet richly redolent :
The beads I kissed, but most lov'd her
That did perfume the pomander.
Pomander, a ball of scent.

Peasant Family by Louis de Nain


Anne Countess of Clanbrassil by van Dijck, 1636
Frick Collection, New York

Lady by Vermeer, 1665
note fur edging and compare to Ter Borch's Glass of Lemonade
Frick Collection, New York

 

E. Footwear


 

 

 

 

IV What Am I?

 

Current and not so current fashion