A1. Time Period: approx. mid 5th C. to 1500

• Before this time, the Roman Empire. After this time, the Renaissance.
• Also known as 'Medieval' from Latin words medium (middle) and aevum (age)

• Covers a period of approx. 1000 years.

A2. Location

A2. General Comments

• The church separated from the Roman Catholics in 1054: Eastern Orthodox and Roman Catholic
• Feudalism
• Islam
• Dark Ages vs. Later Middle Ages,
• Charlemagne

B. Social

• Social Structure: Nobles (land holders) and Serfs (masses)
• King - Powerful Lords- Lessor Lords, Knights, Serfs

C. Economic

• Feudal System
• The Crusades
• By approx. 10th C trade increased and towns began to grow.
• Bourgeoisie or townspeople. - a new Middle Class
• Trade Fairs
• Merchant Guilds
• By 13th C. the church owned 30% of the land in Western Europe.

D. Commerce

• In early Middle Ages, the decline of Trade and Industry... merchants stopped shipping, roads deteriorated.
• In general, as feudalism increased, trade decreased.
  

E. Religion

• Two major religions: Christianity (2 orders) and the Moslem's Islam (Mohammed the prophet, and Allah their God).
• Crusades: 1095 - 1291, the Holy Wars - between the Christians and Moslems.
• Holy Inquisitions

F. Literature and Art

• Latin became broken down into local languages, e.g. French, Italian and Spanish in the making.
• The Church preserved Roman-Greco culture (copying books and manuscripts), and influenced literature with religious themes and architecture (cathedrals)
• Music - Gregorian Chant
• Architecture was first Romanesque (thick walls, few windows, rounded arches) and later Gothic (thin walls, pointed arches, tall spires, gargoyles, stained glass) e.g. Notre Dame and Westminster Abbey.

G. Intellectual

• Universities were founded, e.g. Oxford, Cambridge
• Invented magnifying lenses, glass windows, mechanical clocks.

I. Summary

A. Motifs

• many types of motifs
  
• decorations were embroidered, woven

B. Materials

• Cotton.
• New Fabrics were muslin, dimity, and silk damask.
• Trade Guilds were established to develop the manufacture of cloth for export.
• Wool

C. Silhouette

• Early silhouette was based on Roman influence, with simple cuts and styles.
• Later silhouette became more fitted. Fitting was achieved not only by 'cut' but by lacing of garments.

D. Other Information

• more fitting

• patterned fabrics

• layering

A. Garments

Tunic/Gonelle/Cottelle/Bliaud/Bliaut/Gunna

B. Headwear

Rogier van der Weydan, c. 1435
Web Gallery of Art
Lady Wearing a Gauze Headdress

C. Hair

D. Jewelry

E. Footwear

Poulaine/Cracow

Current and not so current fashion