A1. Time Period: approx. 1300 - 1600 A.D.

• Renaissance means ‘Rebirth’. Renewed interest in the Classical era of Greece and Rome.
• Covers a period of approx. 300 years, with the peak around 1500.
• This is a period marked by an economical revival, expansion of learning and sea exploration.
• Prior to Renaissance, people worked on Feudal Estates owned by wealthy noblemen. Life was centered on religion and the Catholic Church, which was the strongest force in Europe. As the Renaissance advanced, kings and princes took over the feudal estates, building countries and strong national governments. Trade and commerce increased. People moved from farms to the growing towns and cities.
• The Protestant Reformation weakened the power of the Roman Catholic church, and Christianity split into many different faiths.
• The Renaissance started in Italy which was more removed from the typical Middle Age style of life... had kept up its trade. It began in the city of Florence. (Medici family)
• Greatest achievement of Renaissance was the growth of scholarship and the arts. Man became a curious explorer.
• Movement of philosophy towards Humanism... the emphasis on man as an individualist. (Middle Ages approach > man as part of a group..) to Individualism. Artists, architects, poets, playwrights, etc. explored new ways.

A2. Location

B. Social

• Kings now ruled the various countries.
• Henry VIII of England, Francis I of France
• The power of the feudal nobility decreased as wealthy merchants and bankers became stronger.

C. Economic

• The Crusades of previous times increased interest in demand for luxury goods.
• As trade and towns increase, a new social class increased the Bourgeoisie or townspeople. - a new Middle Class
• Trade Fairs and Craft Guilds continued.

D. Commerce

• Growth of Trade
• Sea Exploration opened new lands and new riches to be brought to various countries.
• Explorers included Columbus (the Americas), Vasco da Gama (Africa), Balboa (Pacific), Ponce de Leon (Florida), Magellan (the globe)

E. Religion

• Christianity (2 orders) and the Moslem’s Islam (Mohammed the prophet, and Allah their God).
• Reformation...the separation of the
• Church of England
• Lutheranism
• Anglican Church

F. Literature and Art

• Petrarch and Boccaccio were three early Italian writers who translated the Greek classics, etc. ..
• Artists: Giotti , Van Eyck, Van der Weyden, Bellini, Bosch, Michelangelo (the David), Da Vinci (Mona Lisa and the Last Supper), Raphael (painter and architect... St. Peter’s), Botticelli
• Movement towards Man as an individual... now nude bodies portrayed.
• Literature: Dante, Bacon, Spenser, Shakespeare. Literature was now written in vernacular languages, not Latin.
• Music: John Dunstable, Benches, Dufay, Prez, Gabrieli, da Palestrina, Lassus, William Byrd, Caccini, Marenzio, Gabrieli, Thomas Morely, Orlando Gibbons (English Madrigal)

• rulers and popes gathered great libraries
• scholars founded academies throughout Italy to study the classics and ancient literature.
• Johannes Gutenberg invented the movable type press about 1440.

G. Intellectual

• Universities were founded, e.g. Oxford, Cambridge
• Invented magnifying lenses, glass windows, mechanical clocks.

Overview

• Clothing as for the most part sumptuous and elaborate.
• Italian artists: Pesellino, Pollaiuola and Jacopo Bellini turned to designing costumes and textile patterns - may have been amongst the first fashion designers
• During the last part of the 16th C, Titian’s grandson, Cesare Vecellio (Venice) produced innumerable fashion plates so that all who were interested and financially able might be dressed in the latest fashion. (Dover Book)
• Pietro Bartelli presented fashions to the people of England, German, Spain and Hungary in the form of illustrations.

A. Motifs

• many types of motifs
  
• decorations were embroidered, woven
• patterned cloth was becoming more elaborate

B. Materials

• Brocades, velvets, embroidered velvets, satins, damasks, cloth of gold.
• Colors were bright.
• Fabrics richly decorated with pearl’s, gold, etc.
• Knitting was being introduced as a common fabric structure.
• embroidery blossomed
• Lace making was invented and used.

C. Silhouette

• A horizontal line early in the period: neckline, wide shoulders, duck-billed shoes
• Moved towards a vertical line later in the 16th century.
• Men were generally broad shoulders with small waist.
• Women were narrow shoulders, small waist, full hips.
• Later silhouette became more fitted.

D. Other Information

• more fitting

• patterned fabrics

• layering

A1. Costume for Men

Doublet/Pourpoint

A2. Costume for Women

B. General

Process of Dressing

C. Accessories

Beret

Lady Margaret Wyatt by Hans Holbein

E. Footwear

E. Henry's Wives

Ann Boelyn

Current and not so current fashion